Top 10 tools a cyclist should own

Cycling is a multi-faceted sport and in order to be a well-rounded cyclist, not only do we have to sharpen our skills on the bike, but a decent amount of emphasis also has to be placed on our technical know-how when it comes to working on our bikes. Indexing gears, trouble-shooting a pesky squeak, replacing an old worn out chain with a new one, replacing a punctured inner tube with a new one and so on.

However, all of that knowledge and insight won't get you far if you don't have the tools to execute them. And with the ever rising cost of living and the less than decent performance of our Ringgit over the past few years, investing in a good set of tools will help you save some cash in the long run as you'll be able to handle your mechanical problems in-house rather than get a bike mechanic to do it which is going to cost you cash. So, here are my top 10 tools every self-sustaining cyclist should have in order of increasing importance.

Spoke wrench/key

Kicking off this list at number 1 is a spoke key. After a couple of thousand kilometers or so, the spokes on our rims will twist and turn unevenly from one another due to the various impacts our tyres make with the road and all it's bumps and surprises, This, after awhile, will cause the rim to go out of true. This may not seem like an issue at first, but if not treated soon, it can cause the drive-train or groupset to wear-out prematurely, especially the chain and rear cassette. After awhile, the rim may start to rub against your brake pads or worse, the chain stays. Eventually, the structural deformity may become permanent, costing you a bomb as you'll need a new rim. A spoke key is needed to adjust the spokes of your rim in order to bring it back into true again.

The main reason why a spoke key is at the bottom of my list so to speak is because it's not an emergency tool and you're probably only going to be using it once every one to two years at most. Apart form that, in the event you don't want to buy one, most bike stores offer wheel truing services as part of their basic tune-ups which will cost you some where around RM45 to RM60. So not too much of a big deal.

Torque wrench
At number 2 is a torque wrench, a highly recommended tool in the event you own a carbon bike. According to senior bike mechanics, the number one cause of damage to a carbon frame or carbon components is not crashes, but over-tightening. This is where a torque wrench comes in. It is essentially a wrench or spanar that will ensure you tighten the screw on your carbon frame and components to their recommended settings and not go beyond. You've already spent so much on your prestine carbon bike, invest a little more so it stays prestine.

A torque wrench will be significantly more useful to you than a spoke key, as you'll service your headset, groupset, seatpost and what not much more frequently than truing your wheels. Plus, in the event you have a bike bag and travel frequently with it to races, you're going to have to disassemble certain parts of your bike before storing it into the bag, that'll require a torque wrench so as to ensure everything is set appropriately.

Chain-cleaner

Next up is a chain cleaner. This takes the lead over the torque wrench as any self-respecting cyclist would clean his or her bike at fairly regular intervals or at least an appropriate amount depending on how much he or she rides. It prolongs the life of your groupset, improves your bike's performance, adds moral to your rides and it's certainly going to be done more often that disassembling parts of your bike and reassembling them with a torque wrench.

Anyone who's ever tried to get their bike's drive train absolutely spotless will know it's virtually impossible to achieve regardless of how much degreaser and detergent you throw at it. And before you say anything, I will have to admit that I was skeptical at first, but once I saw how effective and EASY it was to use a chain-cleaner, all doubts just faded away. If you're serious about how clean you want your bike to be, a chain-cleaner is going to get you a long way.

Chain tool
Perhaps the second commonest mechanical issue you'll face when out on a ride after a punctured tyre is a snapped chain. In the event you don't keep track of how worn out your chain is, it may just snap on you one fine day when you're hustling up that climb and putting all you've got into your cranks. Cleaning your bike and drive train regularly will prevent all that grime and dirt from building up but all the cleaning is the world isn't going to prevent the inevitable. Everything ages with time and so does your chain.  

'Chain stretch' comes from the bushings wearing with the chain pins. Overtime, the inner diameter of these bushings increase and the pins groove out. Not only does this result in sloppy shifts, but it increases the risk of your chain snapping.

Regardless if you're out on the road and need to temporarily mend a snapped chain with a quick link or at home and are planning on replacing a worn-out chain with a new one, you're going to require a chain tool to break the links in the new chain prior to installation or in the old prior to installing the quick links.

From this point onwards, you'll find the tools I've actually spent money on to purchase as I feel they're worth the investment in the long run and have allowed me to maintain my bike without the need to depend on a bike shop mechanic. 

Allen keys

They might not be the most useful tools in an emergency, but chances are, you'll probably be using a set of Allen keys more often to make fine adjustments when you're servicing your bike than a chain tool to replace a snapped chain by the side on the road. In fact, they're probably the only tools on this list that can be used outside of cycling. From putting together furniture to tightening a loose screw, you'll be a regular handyman with just a set of Allen keys.

However, in the event you're interested in saving some cash instead of splurging on a full drawer's worth of Allen keys, just pick up sizes 4, 5 and 6 as these are the most commonly used keys as far as bicycles are concerned. Of course, a torque wrench would be preferable over regular Allen keys especially if you own a carbon bike, but taking into account cost and overall practicality, Allen keys are far cheaper, easier to obtain, require no calibration and can be used for far more things than just bikes

Saddle bag
Probably one of the earliest upgrades to a bike a cyclist can make long before aero rims or top of the line group sets is a saddle bag. Now, granted, you're bike doesn't need a saddle bag to function, nor will having one make you go faster. If anything, it does add some amount of weight to the bike. But take a look around the next time you're on a group ride an chances are a good majority of the bikes you see, no matter how high-end they are, will have a saddle bag on them. It just makes it more convenient to carry your essential tools with you when out on a ride. Plus, they're relatively inexpensive with a decent one costing you below RM150, sub-RM100 if it's on sale. 

No more needing to constantly stuff inner tubes, a mini pump, a multi tool, patches, etc into your back pockets every time you want to go out for a ride. Keep it all in a saddle bag so you'll never have to worry about such things ever again. 

My trusty 12 year old saddle bag, still going strong

Tyre levers
A puncture is an eventuality every cyclist will have to face one day. Even if it occurs not too far from home and we're able to pedal back at a snail's pace, the inner tube will still need replacing nonetheless. Plus, the ability to replace a punctured inner tube is considered by many to be a must-have skill for any cyclist, regardless of skill level.

Even though you can, with some degree of difficulty, replace a punctured tube with a new one without the aid of tyre levers, a pair of plastic tyre levers will cost you less than RM10, are small and weigh next to nothing, making them ideal tools to carry with you on any ride so as to be prepared for a pesky puncture. Most bike shops tend to sell 'puncture kits' that include a couple of tyre levers with one or two spare inner tubes and some tyre patches too.

Some tyre levers and spare inner tubes

Mini-pump
While we're still on the subject of punctures, a pair of tyre levers will only get you half way. In the event of a road side puncture and your hours away from home, you're going to need a pump to inflate the newly installed inner tube. As conveniently quick it is to use a track pump when inflating a tyre, they're far to big and cumbersome to be carried on a long distance ride, even if your bike has panniers and a pannier rack. Here is where a mini-pump comes in.

They may take a little while longer in comparison to a track pump, but they're far more portable and light, making them ideal pocket tools on long distance rides. The mini-pump I bring along on long rides is attached to a holster of sorts which integrates well with the bottle cage mounting holes on the seat tube. However, in the event you choose to get one that has to be carried in your back pocket, then I'd recommend prioritising portability over inflation speed. The way I see it, I'd rather have something that I'm going to have to carry all the time be portable rather than save an extra minute or two on that rare occasion when I have to do a road-side fix.

Multi tool
In the event you want to be well-equiped but don't want to have too many tools cluttering your house, then perhaps you could invest in a multi tool containing most of the aforementioned tools. A decent RM100 - RM200 tool usually comes equipped with 50% of the tools on this list. The one I'm using is the Crank Brother M17 which has Allen keys sizes 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm and 8mm, a chain tool that's 8, 9 and 10 speed compatible, a spoke wrench/key, a flat head and Phillips screwdrivers, a T-25 torx wrench for disc brake rotors and 8mm and 10mm open wrenches. If you do enough digging, you can probably find one for under RM130. The one I have is from USJ Cycles.

Ever since getting it, I've not had the need to reach for other individual tools, even when I'm sat at home and need to make adjustments to my bike. It's extremely portable and fits nicely in my saddle bag along with 2 spare tubes and 2 tyre levers. It weights just 168g and while it's probably not the lightest multi tool out there, what's a couple of extra grams for something that delivers exceptional value for money. 

Track pump
And finally, the most important tool, in my opinion, that every cyclist needs to have is a trawck pump. Even though you may have a mini-pump, there's no way it can beat out a track pump when it comes to practicality. It almost goes without saying that if you own a bicycle, you have to own a track pump. Even if you didn't have all the other tools on this list, if your tyres are underinflated or plain flat, there's no way you're going to be able to ride your bike without potentially damaging your tyres or rims or worse. It's like a owning a pair of running shoes without laces or a badminton racquet without it's string. Do I even need to get into this?

A pressure gauge like the one you see here would be preferable

And that's about it. This list wasn't put together with tons of scientific data to back it up. Instead, it's a very subjective one that takes into account my own personal experience with cycling tools as well as my opinions on how useful they are to the average cyclist, especially one who's on a budget. That's it for now. As always, feel free to leave any and all comments or questions in the comment section down below and I'll try my best to answer. Thank you for reading!

Things no one tells you before you start cycling

Congratulations! You've finally got yourself a bike along with some decent kit. That's probably the biggest hurdle you'll encounter when becoming a cyclists right? Getting the bike? Well, this article might, unfortunately, crush any dreams you may have of riding down the Champs Ellise in that yellow jersey one day. Here is my list of top 5 things people don't tell you before you start cycling.

It's hard
In most sports, professionals always make everything seem way easier than they actually are. Cycling is, unfotunately, no exception. From climbing a mountain to going on the attack, 100+ kilometer Tour de France stages to the cobbles of Paris-Roubaix, it always seems so effortless on the TV. That is, until you actually try it out for yourself. Chances are, if you're getting into cycling without a decent background in some other physical sport, you're thighs and back will be killing you within 5km from home. Plus, if you've never ridden a bike before, you'll most probably be unfamiliar with bicycle gears or how to use them, causing you to be shifting late and stalling up a long climb.

Not only that, once you've built up a little more stamina, figured out how your gears work and generally feel a little better about yourself, enter group rides. The challenge of balancing your composure so as to ride predictably in the group while still pedaling your heart out and cursing under your breath to keep up with the wheel in front of you is perhaps a quirk exclusively found in cycling. And depsite all that effort and suffering, it'll be all the more disheartening when you get dropped, a.k.a the group is just too fast for you and you get left behind.

It's pricey
I've met my fair share of riders who've forked out bigs sums of cash or have taken out loans to pay for their high-end road stallions so as to own the latest and greatest the bicycle market has to offer. Unfortunately, in all that haste, they didn't stop to consider the long-term financial commitments that come with cycling. Owning a bike is, in many ways, similar to owning a car; you can suffer from punctures, it gets damaged in crashes, it requires regular sevicing, wear-and-tear affects the drive-train (gears and chain) and it can get stolen. And of course, as with a car, the pricier your bike is, the higher the cost to maintain it.

In my post on how to buy your first bike, I touched briefly on the different kinds of bicycle frames and groupsets out there. A groupset consists of the parts on your bike other than the frame, wheels, seat and seat post, handle bar and the handle bar stem. In other words, the gears, shifters, brakes, deraileurs and cranks. And as with a high-performance car engine, the higher end your groupset is, the more it's going to cost you to replace those parts once they've worn out. Not only that, most pro-team mechanics recommend changing your chain more frequently if you run a higher end groupset as it's far cheaper to change a chain than it is to change sprockets or the entire cassette once it's worn out. More frequent chain changes will allow your cassette to last longer, sometimes up through 5 chains. The frequency by which you should replace your chain with a new one has been widely debated by many in the cycling community. A consensus that comes up frequently on the internet is after 2000 miles (3200 kilometers) or so, even sooner if you're a little on the heavy side or if you do a lot of climbs. 

Apart from that, those who choose to go down the carbon route had best try to avoid crashes as best as they can. I mean sure, it goes without saying that no one wants to crash. But in the event lady luck took the day off and you do end up eating asphault, chances are you'll probably fare far better than your carbon companion. Carbon bikes are infamously known for their low levels of durability in the event of a major crash. Even if your frame doesn't snap in half, any cracks that form may result in your bike being too dangerous to ride. So, assuming all your groupset components are fine (less than likely), you'll have to get a completely new frame.

There's a lot to learn

Up until this point in the article, if you're even a little bit overwhelmed by the all information, don't worry, most beginners usually are. Wait until you realise what else you don't yet know. 

As with the components that make up a bicycle, from the ball bearings in your head tube down to the rubber that grips the road, there are so many things to learn about cycling. Regardless of how deep your pockets are, not all the problems you encounter can be solved by dropping by your local bike store and handing your bike over to the mechanic who'll be all too happy to see you. A road side mechanical will creep up on you and pounce one day, maybe not today, probably not tomorrow, but one day. And when that day comes, you had best hope you how how to solve your little conundrum, especially if you forgot to bring a phone and are miles away from home. (FYI, here's a list of things I recommend every cyclist carry with him/her when on a long ride). Being able to remedy a flat tyre and fix a broken chain are 2 skills every cyclist should have in his or her repertoir. 

Apart from emergencies, knowing how to perform a basic bike service ( ie replacing a worn out chain, regreasing your head tube and bottom bracket, degreasing and relubing your chain, indexing your gears, etc) will greatly help your wallet out in the long run and is a mark of a seasoned cyclist.

It's not going to get you a 'superhero' body

Unlike most other sports, professional cyclists aren't too well known for having Henry Cavill's Superman-esque body. Instead, our bodies are more akin to that of a T-Rex, big girthy thighs with toned calves while having little going on in the upper limbs. And trust me when I say, after awhile, you'll start to find your favourite pair of jeans or shorts just not fitting you right.

There are of course, exceptions to this law of cycling nature. Track cyclists like 6 time Olympic gold medalist Sir Chris Hoy and our very own Bronze medalist Azizul Awang for instance, both have quite muscular builds, full of the fast white-twitch muscle fibers needed to put out all those watts. But such bodies weren't built on bikes alone, track cyclist spend almost as many hours in the gym as they do out on the track. And before you ask, yes, professional road cyclists do spend some time in the gym as well, but the exercises they do aren't so much to turn them into sprinters but to complement the levels of fitness they achieve on their bikes. In fact, most amateur level riders are capable of putting out the same amount of maximum power of that of a professional. What sets the pros apart is their ability to sustain a higher than normal average power for a longer than normal period of time. So, in the event you think cycling's going to get you a spot in the next Avengers movie, it'd be best to consider a different sport altogether. Plus, our tan lines aren't exactly swimsuit magazine cover material.

It's rewarding

Despite all the obstacles and challenges you'll face as a cyclist, both on and off the road, there's no denying the high that it rewards us with as well as the addiction we so lovingly suffer from. Riding an hour continuously for the first time, finishing that first century ride, conquering that once unconquerable hill, your first race, your first duathlon or triathlon even, a ride across the country or even the world! Some of the many milestones a cyclist goes through, each worthy of celebration in our own small ways as well as acting as a marker for what we've already achieved and a reminder of everything else that we've yet to do.

And then theres its effect on our bodies. Health is not something that can be stolen, created or bought, it has to be earned. Being able to shred up the side of a mountain without slowing down but instead going "I've got this, gimme another gear" or hold the line at the front of a peloton while your mates rest their worn out asses behind you. Being less than 10% body fat or having a resting heartrate under 60 beats per minute, are goals that money can't buy and are in fact status symbols that we as cyclists strive for.

Our tan lines are our badges of honor, signs that we are warriors of the road who have suffered and fought through poor road conditions, ass-hat drivers and the unforgiving heat and should not be hidden but instead displayed proudly, within the confines of our homes.

In short/TL;DR : It's harder than it looks, it's expensive, there's a lot you don't yet know, you're not gonna get buff through cycling and it'll all be worth it at the end.

Annnnnddddd that's about it for this post. Do you agree with all my points? Were there things I missed out? Please do let me know in the comment section down below and tell me what you think. As always, I appreciate any and all feedback, comments and questions and will try my best to get back to you. Until next time, thanks for reading!

Top 6 Tips When Cycling in a Group/Peloton

Cycling is a sport unlike any other, the wind in your face as you speed down hills north of 60k/h, or suffer up 45 degree climbs on that last cassette, all without the noisy rumblings of any gas-guzzling motorised aid. It is also a sport in which the term 'the more the merrier' applies to and very aptly as well if I may add. The sense of teamwork as your peloton blazes down the highway, eating up the kilometers with graceful stride or the sense of healthy competition and a little frustration as you try to keep up with the wheel in front of you so you don't get dropped by the group. And with the ever growing interest of cycling in Malaysia, more and more cycling groups are being established every day with group rides organised weekly, especially by local bike stores; the Specialized Concept Store in Petaling Jaya and Treknology (Trek Bicycles) in Kota Damansara organise weekend rides along the Guthrie Corridor Expressway (GCE). Regardless of your predicament, it can't be argued that riding in a group brings it's own unique sense of enjoyment. However, as with any leisurely pleasure, one should know how to enjoy it responsibly. So, here's my top 5 list of tips when it comes to riding in a group.

Don't be late
Among the many ways to make a bad first impression, being late is arguably close to the top of the list and riding in a group is no exception. Be courteous and respectful towards your fellow riders and understand that their time is precious too. Punctuality is especially more important when riding in a group as groups tend to plan to cover long distances during their rides and long distances equal large amounts of time spent in the saddle. An decent hour of running may equal a respectable 10 km to 15 km but only a mere 30 km for a cyclist. So you can imagine how long a weekend century or 100 km ride might take, taking into account the occasional rest stop and the post-ride nasi lemak breakfast.

Malaysians are infamously known for their satirical 'Malaysian Time' but in my honest opinion, it's a terrible excuse for being inconsiderate about others and my blood boils ever so slightly whenever I have the misfortune of dealing with such people. So, a good tip would be to be certain about the meet up point, determine via Google Maps or Waze or any other reliable GPS app the duration of travel from your house to the said meet up point, and allow yourself an extra 15 minutes or so in the event unforeseen circumstances arise. Pack your bicycle and other necessary equipment into your car the night before and get a good amount of sleep so as to be able to wake up fresh and on time. Let's put a stop to inconsiderate tardiness.

Know how to signal
Just because our bicycles don't come with built in indicator lights like our cars or motorcycles, that doesn't mean we have no means of signaling other road users, especially other cyclists, and forewarning them about what we're about to do next, thus making us more predictable to them as well as safer. Our own 2 hands are all we need. Even though there are lists of different cycling-related signage out there to learn, here is a brief list of the most used by groups on our roads based on personal experience (Images taken from Road Cycling UK):

Signaling to turn:


Slowing down:

Stopping


Oncoming hazard (objects usually on the left side of the road as that's the side we ride on, so point towards the right like so):


Pothole/other road irregularities (point to the potential danger on the road):


Move up or come through:


Thank you:

In the event you're passing a cyclist, please be mindful of the rules of the road as they apply to us too. This means only over taking on the right. An additional safety measure which can be taken is letting the cyclist in front of you know that you're passing by shouting out 'on your right' or by ringing a bell if you have one.



Go easy on the brakes
Drafting is perhaps unique to the sport of cycling. Essentially, it is the process of aligning yourself behind a rider so as take advantage of his or her slipstream, thus reducing the overall drag that's placed on us. In other words, you won't have to deal with the brunt of the air resistance ahead. This effect is even more noticeable in headwinds. When you're resting behind the wheel of the rider in font of you, you be'll be putting out less effort, 30% less theoretically speaking, to maintain a particular speed than compared to riding at the front or riding one your own. While this all seems nice, one of the most daunting lessons a cyclist will ever learn when cycling in a group for the first time is staying off the brakes while one's front wheel is within inches from the wheel of the rider in front. Plus, the fact you'll going at speeds upwards of 30 km/h won't be doing you any favors.

While emergency braking is definitely warranted in certain situations, most of the time however, if you ever find yourself going a little too fast when in a group, all you really have to do is stop pedaling. Once you've adjusted your speed, you'll find that braking would've been an unnecessary and potentially dangerous overcompensation. Of course, I'm not saying you'll never have to use your brakes when in a group. In fact, it is generally frowned upon to be cycling with both hands on the tops of the handle bar when in a group as your hands are far from the brakes. But, most of the time, minute adjustments in speed can be made by simply not pedaling.

Once you've mastered this little skill, you'll become a more predictable rider, which translates to a safer riding experience for both you and your fellow companions.

Service your bicycle
Nothing screams annoying like a squeaking bicycle. And as discomforting as it is for you to bare with, it's not at all easier for your fellow compatriots who want nothing more than to drop you as soon as possible. Not only that, a poorly maintained bike is going to cost you more in the long run as far as maintenance and riding pleasure go. So it's good to service your bike regularly, not only for group rides but riding in general. Fret not, I'm not expecting you to swap out your chain, bearings, cables and what not everytime you're about to embark on a group ride, but just spend a good 15 minutes to look over your bike from top to bottom and make sure everything is in working order. Here's a brief list of what I usually go through a day before a group ride:

• I'll usually assess the chain and gears first, if they're filthy and full of gunk, I'll give my bike a wash from top to bottom along with some degreaser for the chain and gears, followed by a fresh new application of chain lube.
• Break levers and shifters - check to see if they're in working order
• Break pads - check to see if they're worn out or have bits of debris in them which may need removing
• Wheels - check to see if they spin buttery smooth when lifted off the ground and given a spin
• Tyres - are they at their optimal pressures?
• Bottom bracket - if I'm experiencing unwanted noise coming from the bottom bracket (BB), I'll remove my cranks, clean out the BB and apply some fresh new grease, which usually sorts the problem out.
• Pedals - squeaking may originate from pedals which haven't been serviced for a while
• Equipment - ensure all lights and tools you're bringing along on your ride are in working order

Ensure your tyres have no surprises waiting for you

Be prepared
In essence, it's always advisable to be prepared for your ride by going over a map or a set of directions given to you by a group member or ride organiser, especially if you're riding a particular route for the first time. Inquire about road condition, rendezvous points or rest stops, as well as what their protocol is in the event you can't keep up with the group. This way, if you were to get lost or suffer a mechanical problem and you're on your own, you maybe able to call for help if you have a phone with you or make your way back to the starting point on your own.

Try not to get lost

Apart from that, bring along additional food and drink with you in the event your ride is going to take you an excess of 2 hours and always remember to have something light to eat before your ride, a banana or energy bar would be good choices. Regardless of how pleasant the company your share or the view along your route are, your ride is going to be far from enjoyable if you're lightheaded, drowsy, irritable and plain lacking energy from hypoglycaemia.

Have a decent meal before going out on a long ride

Next, ensure your tools and spares are all accounted for and in working order. Nothing like being stranded 50km from the nearest town due to a puncture, only to find you forgot to pack a spare tube or patches. If you're interested, here's my top 5 list of things to have with you when cycling, which should pretty much fit the bill. 

Apart from that, ensure any and all lights you maybe using are in working order and have a decent charge left in their batteries if you expect to be riding out before dawn or until after dusk. Our roads aren't exactly worldclass and neither are our road users. So don't be another road-accident fatality statistic. 

Be nice and have fun

Some may say this isn't so much a tip as it is common sense, but I stand by my point. I don't quite know what it is about Asian culture and our disinterest in socializing with others, but we as Malaysians are no exception to this. When we're put into a new situation, we tend to think so much about ourselves and how we're going to fit in that we forget about the other human beings around us. Relationships and bonds aren't built in an instant . So learn to step out of your comfort zone if you're the type of person who's even mildly introverted and talk to the other riders you meet. A "Good morning!" here or a "How are you?" there combined with a couple of "Have you eaten yet?"s in between (we're Malaysians aren't we?) will most certainly take you a long way. It will convey approachability and concern about others as well as expand your circle of friends.

Specialized Concept Store weekly Saturday grouprides - myself at the far left

It will also make other more inclined to look out for you when you're riding, making sure you're ok and checking on you from time to time. They may even work with you in the event both of you get dropped, allowing you to form a little team of your own and take turns drafting behind each other and hence, going faster too. Not only that, you may get to know of other cycling-related events through your mates that you may not have heard of that might interest you; equipment sales, other group rides, upcoming races, trouble shooting tips, etc.

And last but by no means least, have some fun! You may treat it as a competition if you'd like, but group rides are more of a means of socializing and bonding over a common interest. So use it as a means to enjoy yourself, improve your cycling, make new acquaintances, expand your knowledge, get healthier and blow off some steam from a long week's worth of work.

That's it for this post guys. As always, leave any and all comments of questions you may have in the comment section down below and I'll try my best to reply. Thank you for reading!